Wine Weekends Lunigiana

Lunigiana is a wild, evocative land straddling northern Tuscany and eastern Liguria. Carved by the Magra River between the Apuan Alps and the Apennines, it’s a rugged mosaic of valleys, hills, forests, and ancient villages. Rather than grand vistas of monoculture vineyards, its terrain reveals pockets of vines tucked into terraces, slopes, and niches where microclimates allow viticulture. History runs deep here—medieval castles, stele statues, and the passage of pilgrims on the Via Francigena all leave traces in the stone, roads, and culture that now enfold its wine identity. Lunigiana is wine with a whisper: subtle, rooted, and entwined with wild landscapes.

Visiting Lunigiana for wine is about discovery rather than spectacle. Many estates are small and welcoming by appointment, inviting you to stroll modest vineyards, descend to cellars, and sip at old tables or courtyard nooks. The Wine Route of Colli di Candia and Lunigiana links estate visits, historic hill towns, olive groves, and forested ridges. You can pair wine stops with walking trails through ancient woodland, visits to castles hidden in forests, or side trips to river gorges. Because distances are often intimate, it’s easy to shape your own route. Late afternoons are magical, when light softens and the land exhales.

Lunigiana’s cuisine is steeped in tradition, mountain, and sea. You’ll find testaroli (a kind of flatbread–pasta hybrid), panigacci, marocca (a chestnut‑infused bread), chestnut cakes, and wild herb dishes. In the valleys, freshwater fish and riverine mushrooms appear. Moving toward the coast, olive oil, anchovy, and sea flavors mingle with inland products. Meats—especially lamb from Zeri or small game—appear on rustic grills or in stews. Cheeses and cured meats complete the plate. Fresh white wines and lighter reds from the hills offer a clean counterpoint to the earthy, seasonal flavors that define local cooking.

Lunigiana’s grape heritage is surprisingly rich and varied. In coastal and lower elevations, Vermentino is central, used in blends or as a varietal, contributing brightness, sea-air salinity, and minerality. Inland, Sangiovese plays a role in red blends under the Colli di Luni DOC, joined by local varieties like Pollera, Canaiolo, Ciliegiolo, and sometimes Vermentino Nero. In the higher, hillier sectors, indigenous and older varieties (some nearly forgotten) are being revived, reflecting biodiversity across altitude and exposure. These local varieties give wines of nuance, tension, and place.

Spring in Lunigiana brings fresh green across riverbanks and steep slopes; wildflowers and chestnut blossoms perfume the air. Late spring and early summer are ideal for vineyard walks and early tastings, before midsummer heat deepens. Harvest generally falls in late August through September, when estates hum with picking, fermenting, and blending. Autumn brings softer light, cooling evenings, and harvest festivals or open-cellar weekends. In winter, much of the landscape slows—but this is a contemplative season for cellaring, blending, and behind‑scenes tastings in quiet spaces.

Base yourself in a small town like Pontremoli, Filattiera, or one of the hill communities, giving access both to rivers, forests, and vineyards. Plan at least four nights to roam valleys, wine roads, and hidden corners. Dedicate a day to exploring the coast‑adjacent vineyards under Colli di Luni, another to inland hillside estates and varietal experimentation, and a third to discovering the wild side—castles, forest trails, and local markets. Time your visit, if possible, to overlap open wine events or harvest‑season weekends. Travel by car or bicycle, pausing where views, stray vines, or local invitation beckon. Let the rhythms of the land guide your itinerary.

Here are the top wineries to visit in Lunigiana:

• Podere Scurtarola
• Cantine Ramarro
• Cantina il Monticello

Here are the best wine tastings to book in Lunigiana:

• Colli Del Levante Wine Tasting at Il Monticello Winery
• Wine Tasting Experience on the Candia summit at Podere Scurtarola
• Wine Tasting Picnic at Cantine Ramarro in Carrara Hills